How To Take Care Of Your Skin In Your Fifties and Beyond - SkinMiles South Africa

How To Take Care Of Your Skin In Your Fifties and Beyond

Dr Alek Nikolic Reveals The Best Skin Care Regime For Your Fifties and Beyond

So we have left our forties behind and we have moved on into our fifties. Children have grown up, stresses have reduced and life is settling down a bit. You may even have decided to start focusing on yourself and to start doing things for yourself.

Unfortunately ageing changes have taken place and they may be clearly visible:

  1. Wrinkles around the eyes, mouth, frown and forehead
  2. Loss of volume and support of the cheek fat pads, temples, eyebrows, etc.
  3. Visible jowl
  4. Neck laxity with Platysmal bands
  5. Fine lines around the eyes and eyelid, mouth and lower cheek especially with smiling
  6. Skin looks dull and sallow
  7. Increased amount of pigmentation marks
  8. Visible pores and rough texture
  9. ‘Age spots’

This skin care regime is aimed at:

  1. Those who take their skin care seriously and have been religious with facials and taking their skin therapists advice on products and ingredients
  2. But it is also aimed at all of those who have never bothered to use anything but a simple moisturiser and their bar soap as a cleanser

It is never too late to start a well thought out skin care regime with active ingredients to reap the benefits and see visible changes with our skins. No matter its condition.

My main drive for all of my patients in this age group is to advise three main strategies:

  1. Sun protection
  2. Moisturise, Moisturise and Moisturise
  3. Stimulate and renew your skin with the best active ingredients available: consider cell stimulators such as Alphahydroxy acids and Polyhydroxy acids, skin boosters such as retinol and vitamin C, and growth factors such as plant derived stem cells
  4. If necessary consider:
    1. IPL or fractional laser treatments
    2. Dermapen MD
    3. Cosmetic injectable treatments such as Botox and dermal fillers

Here Is Your ideal regimen:

Step 1:

Cleanse: A.M. & P.M. Application

A number of different cleansers can be used all the way from cream to foamy but the main focus of these cleansers is that they need to hydrate the skin while they cleanse.

For our full list of our available cleansers please check here.

Dr Alek Nikolic Recommends:

Sensitive Skin: DERMAQUEST DELICATE CLEANSING CREAM

Oily and Acne Prone Skin: SKINCEUTICALS BLEMISH + AGE CLEANSING GEL or NEOSTRATA CLARIFYING FACIAL CLEANSER or DERMAQUEST DERMACLEAR BHA CLEANSER

Combination Skin: EXUVIANCE AGE REVERSE BIOACTIV WASH or EXUVIANCE CLARIFYING FACIAL CLEANSER or SKINCEUTICALS SIMPLY CLEAN or NEOSTRATA SKIN ACTIVE EXFOLIATING WASH

Dry Skin: SKINCEUTICALS GENTLE CLEANSER or EXUVIANCE PURIFYING CLEANSING GEL or EXUVIANCE GENTLE CLEANSING CRÈME

Step 2:

Sunscreen: A.M. Application

Choose a good SPF factor 30 or higher that contains zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide and apply several times daily especially with sun exposure through the day. For our full list of sunscreens please click here.

Dr Alek Nikolic Recommends:

Sensitive Skin: DERMAQUEST SHEERZINC SPF 30 NUDE or HELIOCARE 360 GEL OIL FREE

Oily and Acne Prone Skin: HELIOCARE 360 GEL OIL FREE or HELIOCARE SPF 30 SILK GEL

Combination Skin: DERMACEUTIC SUN CEUTIC 50 or HELIOCARE ADVANCED GEL SPF 50 

Dry Skin: HELIOCARE XF GEL SPF 50 or HELIOCARE 360° FLUID CREAM

Step 3:

Moisturise

A good moisturiser is a must and my recommendation is to use one for the day and one for night time application each with its own ingredients and skin benefits to reach optimal effects. As we reach our fifties (and beyond) hyaluronic acid (HA) production in our skin starts to diminish while our breakdown enzyme (hyaluronidase) activity increases which dramatically reduces the HA levels in our skins. HA is an amazing molecule that has the ability to hold large quantities of water molecules and is found in almost all living organisms.

Using AHA (Alphahydroxy Acid) and PHA (Polyhydroxy Acid) in our moisturisers help to stimulate GAG’s (glucose amino glycans) that are vital for increasing HA production. Adding HA serums that boost the available concentration in our skins will have further plumping and hydrating effects for all skin types.

For our full list of moisturisers please click here.

Dr Alek Nikolic Recommends:

A.M. Application:

Sensitive Skin: NEOSTRATA BIONIC FACE CREAM or DERMACEUTIC REGEN CEUTIC or EXUVIANCE ULTRA RESTORATIVE CRÈME or EXUVIANCE MULTI-PROTECTIVE DAY CREME SPF20

Oily and Acne Prone Skin: NEOSTRATA FACE CREAM PLUS or NEOSTRATA OIL CONTROL GEL (R450.00) or NEOSTRATA OILY SKIN SOLUTION or DERMAQUEST ESSENTIAL B5 MOISTURE MATT or SKINCEUTICALS DAILY MOISTURE

Combination Skin: DERMACEUTIC HYAL CEUTIC or DERMAQUEST ESSENTIAL SOLAR MOISTURIZER SPF30

Normal Skin: DERMAQUEST ESSENTIAL SOLAR MOISTURIZER SPF30 or OBAGI NUDERM EXFODERM 

Dry Skin: NEOSTRATA ULTRA SMOOTHING CREAM or NEOSTRATA ULTRA MOISTURIZING FACE CREAM or NEOSTRATA BIO-HYDRATING CREAM 

P.M. Application:

Sensitive Skin: NEOSTRATA ULTRA MOISTURIZING FACE CREAM or EXUVIANCE AGE REVERSE NIGHT LIFT

Oily and Acne Prone Skin: EXUVIANCE AGE REVERSE NIGHT LIFT or EXUVIANCE NIGHT RENEWAL HYDRAGEL

Combination Skin: DERMACEUTIC TURN OVER or DERMACEUTIC LIGHT CEUTIC or EXUVIANCE AGE REVERSE NIGHT LIFT or DERMAQUEST STEM CELL 3D COMPLEX

Normal Skin: EXUVIANCE AGE REVERSE NIGHT LIFT or DERMACEUTIC TURN OVER

Dry Skin: NEOSTRATA ULTRA MOISTURIZING FACE CREAM or EXUVIANCE ULTRA RESTORATIVE CRÈME or EXUVIANCE AGE REVERSE HYDRAFIRM or OBAGI HYDRATE LUXE

All-Time Favourites & For ALL Skin Types:

NEOSTRATA SKIN ACTIVE MATRIX SUPPORT SPF 30

DERMACEUTIC C25 CREAM

DERMAQUEST STEM CELL 3D TINTED MOISTURISER

SKINCEUTICALS HYDRATING B5

SKINCEUTICALS TRIPLE LIPID RESTORE 2:4:2

DERMAQUEST STEM CELL 3D COMPLEX 

Step 4:

Anti-Oxidants: Repair and Protect

A.M. & P.M. Application

For day, before applying sunscreen, use an antioxidant-rich moisturiser, serum or lotion. There is evidence that antioxidants act synergistically with sunblock to help guard against photo damage and has shown to help with infrared radiation from the sun. added to this bonus is anti-oxidants will also be able to undo some of the damage that’s already been done. Read more on anti-oxidants here: How Antioxidants Work and Adding Anti-Oxidants To Your Skin Care Regime

For our full list of available antioxidants please check here.

Dr Alek Nikolic recommends:

EXUVIANCE ANTIOXIDANT SERUM PERFECT 10

NEOSTRATA SKIN ACTIVE ANTIOXIDANT DEFENSE SERUM

DERMAQUEST NOURISHING PEPTIDE CREAM

SKINCEUTICALS RESVERATROL B E

SKINCEUTICALS CE FERULIC

SKINCEUTICALS PHLORETIN CF

Step 5:

Vitamin A

Retinoids and peptides are two ingredient groups that you should add into your routine if you haven’t already. Peptides can help rebuild collagen, especially when used in combination with skin texture-improving retinoids like retinol. Add a retinoid to your regimen to help improve the overall texture and tone of your skin. The highest-strength retinoids are prescription only, but over-the-counter retinol is a close second. Everyone’s skin is different, so the strength you need will vary on an individual basis. Apply retinoids at night as retinol increases the skin’s sensitivity to the sun. Retinoids can be irritating on your eye area but I do recommend trying it out every 3rd night so that the ski around the eye also gets the rejuvenating effect of retinol. See the benefits of retinol: Which Strength of Retinol Do I Need? And SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3 Uses and Treatment Guidelines And The Pros and Cons of Retinol
Dr Alek Nikolic Recommends:

Low-strength retinol products:

Depending on your skin type and/or concern, you can easily alternate them with our high-strength retinol products:

EXUVIANCE REJUVENATING COMPLEX

EXUVIANCE BLEMISH TREATMENT GEL

NEOSTRATA RENEWAL CREAM

LIFTACTIV ADVANCED FILLER  

These strengths of retinol are also ideal for combining with day time or evening moisturisers with retinol for those who wish to layer them with stronger targeted formulas, or for those who can’t tolerate higher concentrations of retinol. Day time retinol moisturisers:

EXUVIANCE AGE REVERSE DAY REPAIR SPF30

NEOSTRATA SKIN ACTIVE MATRIX SUPPORT SPF 30

Moderate-Strength Retinol Treatments: The Next Step

SkinMiles.Com offers a variety of retinol formulas in the moderate-strength range:

EXUVIANCE OPTILIGHT TONE CORRECTOR

NEOSTRATA PIGMENT CONTROLLER

SKINCEUTICALS RETINOL 0.3

High-Strength Retinol:

Strength 0.5%:

DERMACEUTIC ACTIV RETINOL 0.5

DERMACEUTIC SKIN AGING & PIGMENT SPOTS HOME KIT

DERMACEUTIC ACNE-PRONE SKIN HOME KIT

Strength: 1%

EXUVIANCE SUPER RETINOL CONCENTRATE

DERMACEUTIC ACTIV RETINOL 1.0

Peptides:

DERMAQUEST NOURISHING PEPTIDE CREAM

DERMAQUEST NOURISHING PEPTIDE RICH 

Step 6: Ascorbic Acid: Vitamin C Royalty

A.M. Application

Ascorbic acid—also known as L-ascorbic acid—has the most research of any form of vitamin C when it comes to benefits for skin. For that reason, ascorbic acid is the most used form of vitamin C in well formulated skincare products. When properly formulated, it helps create younger, firmer skin while fading signs of sun damage and post-acne marks.

Ascorbic acid is also a powerhouse when mixed with other antioxidants, or when used alone in higher concentrations, such as 15% or 20% or greater, amounts that can be great for treating extra-stubborn concerns (Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2008 & Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2012). Read more on the benefits of Vitamin C here: Vitamin C for Anti-Aging & Brighter, Healthier Skin

Dr Alek Nikolic Recommends:

OBAGI PRO C SERUM 10%

OBAGI PRO C SERUM 15%

OBAGI PRO C SERUM 20%

EXUVIANCE VITAMIN C BOOSTER POWDER

OBAGI PRO C EYE BRIGHTENER EYE SERUM

DERMAQUEST C INFUSION TX MASK

 

I hope you found the article informative and helpful in starting an effective skin care regime in your fifties.

Please feel free to send me any comments or questions you may have regarding your skin concerns or skin care regimes.

Kind regards

Dr Alek Nikolic

 

Step Oily Skin Combination Skin Dry/Very Dry
Cleanser
A.M. and P.M.
Tip: Avoid bar soaps!

Tip: A gentle, effective cleanser can balance both dry and oily areas.

Tip: Avoid drying or greasy formulas.

Anti-Oxidant

P.M.

Sunscreen:

A.M.

Moisturise
A.M
Tip: Use an ultra-light formula.

 

Tip: Apply moisturiser all over!

 

Tip: Use a more emollient
formula with additional anti-irritants to soothe skin.

Moisturise
P.M

 

 

 

Dr Alek Nikolic

Dr Alek Nikolic was born in South Africa and received his MBBCh (Wits) in 1992 and in 2000 he received his MBA (UCT). He has been in private practice for 24 years and is the owner of Aesthetic Facial Enhancement, which has offices in Cape Town.

Dr Nikolic specialises in aesthetic medicine and is at the forefront of the latest developments in his field. He is very driven and has lectured extensively and has performed live demonstrations throughout South Africa and Internationally including Bangkok, Rome, Paris, Monte Carlo, Prague, and Warsaw. Dr Nikolic’s focus is on skin care, skin ingredients and cosmetic dermatology treatments such as lasers, chemical peels, Botox, and Dermal Fillers. He has performed over 20 000 procedures to date and as such is responsible for training numerous medical practitioners both in South Africa and internationally.

Dr Nikolic is one of the founding members of the South African Allergan Medical Aesthetic Academy and chaired its inaugural launch in 2012. The Allergan Academy provides essential training to keep up with the latest technology in aesthetics. Dr Nikolic holds the advisory position of Allergan Local Country Mentor in Facial Aesthetics and is the Allergan Advanced Botox and Dermal Filler Trainer. He is Vice President of the Aesthetic and Anti-Aging Medicine Society of South Africa (AAMSSA) and is an Associate Member of the American Society of Laser Medicine and Surgery (ASLMS).

  • Kim ,

    excellent advice, will definitely be passing it on!

    • Dr Alek Nikolic ,

      Thanks Kelly great to hear. Kind regards Dr Alek Nikolic

    • Jeannette Fischer ,

      Dr Alec do you consult in Johannesburg?

      • Dr Alek Nikolic ,

        Hi Jeannette thank you for the question. Unfortunately I do not consult in Johannesburg. Please email me directly at: dralek@skinmiles.com and let me know what your concerns are. I may be able to help online and if not I can refer you to someone I trust. Hope this helps. Kind regards Dr Alek Nikolic

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